Friday, September 13, 2013

Things You Never Knew About Maraschino Cherries (FAK Friday)

Maraschino Cherries & How They Are Made

When I was a kid, one of my favorite things in the world was a twist on a classic Shirley Temple. My version consisted of a mix of 7up and maraschino cherry juice, with a few maraschino cherries plopped in for good measure. They were like the treasure at the bottom of my cup, buried beneath the ice cubes. I used to order this drink at every restaurant I went to, and at seven years old was not afraid to instruct my waiter on how to make it. The more cherries, the better.

Recently, out of a sudden and nostalgic urge, I bought a jar of maraschino cherries. It's been years now since I've had them, and this is the first time I've purchased them as an adult. When I got them home, I noticed that the label proudly stated, "contains real cherries!"

I probably wouldn't have thought twice about it if not for those big bold letters, but it got me wondering... just how are maraschino cherries made? I've certainly never seen a cherry tree with neon-colored fruit hanging from its branches, but it had never really occurred to me just how far from nature they might be.

After doing a little research, I began to question the phrase "contains real cherries." Sure, they start out as real cherries, but by the time all is said and done I'm not really sure they count as a fruit anymore. I mean, they've basically had the very soul sucked out of them. They are shadows of their former cherry-selves. All the things that make cherries cherries has been removed, leaving behind an empty shell of red color and sugar, an artificial vestige of what a cherry should be...

Maraschino Massacre (Maraschino Cherries and How They Are Made)

Sorry. I'm in a dark mood today. I call this one "Maraschino Massacre."

This reminds me of a movie I saw a while back, in which a mad-scientist-plastic-surgeon kidnaps someone to be his subject, and performs surgery after surgery on them, altering their appearance more and more until they are completely unrecognizable from who they once were. It was the mad-scientist-plastic-surgeon's dream to mold this person into his idea of bodily perfection. Eventually the person manages to escape, only to find that nobody knows who they are anymore. Their entire identity was gone.

It was horrific, and I don't recommend the film, but that's pretty much what these cherries go through. Let's take a look, shall we?

The process starts with real, honest-to-goodness cherries. Usually a lighter variety, like Royal Ann, or Rainier. The cherries get pitted, then placed in a "brine" of sulfur dioxide and calcium chloride, meant to preserve the cherries and bleach them of their color. Now you have albino cherries, which probably don't taste too good.

Next, the cherries get suspended in a pool of corn syrup, food coloring, and bitter almond oil. Or, as I like to call it, food-grade embalming fluid. You know, because cherries aren't sweet enough, red enough, or medicinally almond-y enough on their own.

The type of food coloring most often used in making maraschino cherries is something called FD&C Red No. 40 (a chemical colorant banned in several other countries as a possible carcinogen). However, they can also contain Red #4 -- a dye that was banned for use in food back in the 1960's, but was re-approved for the purposes of dying maraschino cherries because they are considered "mainly decorative," and, therefore "not a foodstuff."

These cherries just keep getting better and better, don't they?

They weren't always so synthetic, though. Originally, maraschino cherries were simply whole cherries preserved in maraschino liqueur, a drink made from distilled marasca cherries. These drunken cherries were once reserved only for the wealthy, and considered a special treat. It was only during the American prohibition in the 1920's that the alcohol was removed, and replaced with today's chemical-drenched method.

Someone must have thought it was a good idea, because if I remember correctly, prohibition ended a long time ago.

And yet, after all this processing and artificiality, they somehow still maintain that "special treat" feeling. They are the poster child for decadence: pretty as can be, the embodiment of perfection, the proverbial (and literal), "cherry on top."

What a twisted sense of perfection. I feel like this is a comment on what society regards as "beautiful."

The Cherry On Top (Maraschino Cherries and How They Are Made)

I know they're supposed to be cheery and fun, but these little cherries are really bringing me down.

Incredibly, though, "real" maraschino cherries are still available in Europe and, lucky for me, online. I plan to order some, just so I can experience them how they were meant to be.

How do you feel about maraschino cherries? Do you love them, hate them? How do you feel about them now? I'm intensely curious to know.


30 comments:

  1. Dear Willow,

    I wanted to stop by and welcome you to Friendship Friday at Create With Joy! I spent some time perusing your blog and I love what you are sharing!

    I look forward to getting to know you and hope you'll be a regular contributor to Friendship Friday (and Inspire Me Monday) as well!

    Enjoy your weekend!

    ReplyDelete
  2. I've never bought maraschino cherries but I'll definitely be looking closely at the label of any I spot from now on before deciding whether or not to buy them. Fortunately, I live in Europe so I might be safe.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You probably are safe. I don't even know if they even sell these bright-red abominations on your side of the ocean, come to think of it.

      Delete
  3. Hate to add more negativity to this content but years ago I knew a family who had a seaweed processing plant in the west of Ireland and they explained to me that amongst many other foodstuffs, artificial cherries were one of the main after-products of same. Can't be all bad though as seaweed has a lot of healthy benefits. I would prefer the original whole, natural cherries soaked in liquor, sounds so much better!
    Thanks for the interesting article.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hmm... I'd be curious to know where the seaweed processing comes into artificial cherry making. Crazy!

      Delete
  4. I was a Shirley Temple addict when I was little. (And your 7-up variation...genius! I'd like to go back in time and order that at a restaurant, before I feared the true nature of the maraschino cherry.) I spent a summer working at an ice cream stand right after college, and I remember reading the ingredient list on the ginormous jar of cherries one day and thinking "omg.....this is what I was eating when I was little??" It's scary.

    There are a number of bars/restaurants around here that serve high-quality or house-made brandied cherries in their cocktails, and they are deeeevine. And actual cherry-colored, which is always reassuring. (:

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Haha, I know what you mean. I often long to go back to my ignorant seven-year-old self, just so I can really enjoy all that stuff again without knowing how bad it is.

      And those brandied cherries sound incredible! I may have to try making some myself when cherries are back in season.

      Delete
  5. Someone once asked me to eat a peep.


    I refused

    ReplyDelete
  6. Fascinating post! By the way, have you ever tried Maraschino liqueur? Ugh!!! I bought some because I thought it would be good but I can't even taste it because it smells so strong. I'll have to do something with it during holidays - maybe some kind of punch or something!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I have never had Maraschino liqueur on its own. Besides being used to make traditional maraschino cherries, I think it's usually mixed with other liquors to make cocktails. A punch sounds like a great use for it, or I'm sure you can find plenty of recipes on the web!

      Delete
  7. There was a gal I knew that used to work at Del Monte (or some such fruit massacring corporation). She told me that they also use insect blood as a coloring agent. I never checked it out, but I stopped eating maraschinos and canned fruit from big corps after hearing her story. Needless to say, after reading your article and regardless of insect blood, I made the right move. I do miss those Shirley Temples of my youth ~ ignorance is truly bliss.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. That wouldn't surprise me one bit -- in fact, now that you mention it, I think I heard that said about the coloring used to make commercial red velvet cakes, so it's probably the same thing. To be honest with you, bug guts are the least of my concerns after reading up on some of the chemically crap that's in there, haha! You are absolutely right, ignorance truly is bliss.

      Delete
  8. I made my own with Kirsch, and then another batch with brandy, so technically I guess they weren't maraschino, but I think they're much better, no day-glo color and much better flavor.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Sounds delicious! I like the idea of using brandy, I'll have to try that. :)

      Delete
  9. I feel dirty after reading how icky these cherries are. I had no idea Thank you for letting me kno.

    I to want to have the real kind, the way nature intented, ya know...with liquor! :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You're welcome! And I know what you mean, I feel a little dirty just thinking about all the maraschino cherries I've eaten in my lifetime. Ugh!

      Delete
  10. Maraschino Massacre indeed! (Love that photo, FYI.) I've never been a fan of maraschino cherries - just don't like the taste of 'em. But Shirley Temples? As a child, I thought they were the most sophisticated drink of all time, and I simply couldn't fathom why adults weren't drinking them all of the time! Maybe my parents were smart to ban them...

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. That's because they WERE the most sophisticated drink of all time. Those silly adults could never understand.

      (But yes, they were smart to ban them.)

      Delete
  11. Bees near a maraschino factory produced red honey from feasting on the output. Disgusting. http://www.nytimes.com/2010/11/30/nyregion/30bigcity.html?_r=0

    ReplyDelete
  12. I've heard that maraschino cherries are carcinogenic, but never looked into why. Since I really dislike them any way it really didn't matter to me. It is still a shame that they're allowed to make such a thing!

    ReplyDelete
  13. I've never craved these, but have eaten them. Not anymore. They sound disgusting! Thanks for sharing with us.

    Stopping by from Our Everyday Harvest.

    ReplyDelete
  14. Oh man, I cringed when I saw the title and thought to my self- do we really want to know? The cherry on top , bright red and beaming on my Weeks Sunday ( a local restaurant) was my favorite part of the sundae, my mom and dad would always give me theirs too...maybe about 2 years ago I cam home with a jar and Justin was totally taken back- he couldn't understand me of all people why i would buy fake cherries, I am a sucker for anything that reminds me of my childhood :) needless to say I am pretty sure that jar of cherries is still in the fridge door!

    After reading this I think I will keep with the real cherries- although I am going to check out that link!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Haha, I know what you mean... there's something so cozy and nostalgic about them! I'm excited to try the real thing, though (I'll either order some, or make my own the next time cherries are in season). Either way, I'm sure they'll be worlds better!

      Delete
  15. Fantastic article Willow. I love your massacre photo, very evil yet chic. I never cared for them myself, but picked some up a couple years ago for Aleah's birthday party. I think they are still in the fridge. I will be tossing them out as soon as I get home tonight. Thank you for the education. Take care :)

    ReplyDelete
  16. maraschino cherries really bum me out too! i loved them as a kid - like, LOVED - and the color has always been very retro-fantastic to me; just that whole sixties-era bright, colorful foodstuffs (and from what i can tell, the heyday of food coloring). I like it for nostalgia reasons, but a few months back, i read an article on what maraschino cherries actually contain versus how they began their history; so sad. so toxic! and it's just one of those things people pick up and don't even think about. this is a great piece, willow.

    ReplyDelete

Give me a shout -- your comments make my day!